In the previous article, I talked about your earthquake risk that is related to indirect effects of earthquakes on your house, such as liquefaction, tsunamis, flooding caused by dam failures, landslides, firestorms triggered by the earthquake, etc. Your best option for managing this type of risk, short of moving elsewhere, is purchasing earthquake insurance.
The other part of your earthquake risk is the likelihood that your house will be damaged due to a direct earthquake effect― ground shaking. The extent of earthquake damage to your house is determined by the characteristics of the ground shaking and the characteristics of the house. You cannot do anything about the ground shaking, but you can do something about your house: design your new house to be seismically safe & sound, or retrofit your existing house!
If you are building a brand new house, you must make sure that your house is well-designed to resist earthquake shaking. We at OAK Structural have been designing safe & sound homes in the Bay Area for many years; we would be happy to design your next home. You can email me at onder@boomerese.com to start the process.
Deciding to retrofit (strengthen) your existing house requires a consideration of the cost of the retrofit versus how much the retrofitting is likely to reduce your seismic risk. A precise analysis of a wood-framed house to determine how much damage it may incur in an earthquake (before and after it is retrofitted) is next-to-impossible (yes, even in the 21st Century). So, instead of a complex technical discussion, I will give you my opinions on when you should not worry about retrofitting and when you should.
When to Do Nothing or to Just Do Minimal Retrofitting
If your house fits the following description, you should probably not worry about retrofitting it, but you should consider purchasing earthquake insurance:
- Your house is built on a flat lot;
- It is a one-story house;
- It is not an “Eichler House;”
- It is not a split-level house (the floor is at the same level in all rooms of the house);
- The floor is either a concrete slab-on-grade, or it has wood sheathing over 1.5” wide joists (usually at 16-inch spacing);
- There are no cripple walls (the floor joists are directly supported on sill plates that are set on the concrete footings);
- The sill plates are bolted to the concrete;
- There is wood or plywood sheathing on the exterior walls;
- There are no unusually large rooms;
- All rooms have flat ceilings;
- At all sides of the house, there are as much or more walls than windows and doors;
- It does not look like a “U” or “L” in plan;
- It does not have a slender brick fireplace chimney.
There are few caveats I need to add here:
- If your house does not fully fit the description above, but it is less than twenty years old and it was designed by a structural engineer, you may still not worry too much about retrofitting. If the house was indeed designed by a structural engineer, it should have approved permit plans that are stamped and signed by him or her at the City or the County Building Department. There should also be records of the building inspections made during the construction.
- If your house fits the description above, except that it is built on cripple walls (wood stud walls between the floor joists and the concrete foundation) with no plywood sheathing on them and/or the sill plates are not bolted to the foundation, you should hire a licensed contractor to install plywood sheathing on the cripple walls and bolt the sill plates to the foundations. This is the most basic and cost-effective residential seismic retrofit scheme; your money will be well-spent.
- I think brick fireplace chimneys do not belong in this Earthquake Country. I have seen many cases of older (and some recent) brick chimneys falling down in earthquakes. My recommendation to homeowners is to remove the brick chimneys above the fire-box, and build new wood-framed chimneys with metal flues in their place. Light-weight brick veneer may be used on the exterior of a wood-framed chimney, if one really likes the brick look.
When to Consider Seismic Retrofitting:
If your house has some of the following characteristics, and it has not been designed by a structural engineer during the last twenty years or so, your house is a candidate for seismic retrofitting:
- The house is on a hillside;
- It has two or more floor levels (including split level houses) and/or has a room over a garage;
- It is an “Eichler House;”
- The 1st floor is supported on 4×6 beams, spaced at 4-feet (except for the Eichlers).
- There is no wood or plywood sheathing on exterior walls;
- It has very large rooms/openings;
- It has spaces with vaulted ceilings;
- Some of the upper level exterior walls are offset from the lower level walls (inward or outward);
- At some sides of the house there are more windows than the walls;
- The house plan looks like a “U” or “L.”
If your house is a candidate for retrofitting because of the above issues, you should consult a structural engineer and discuss whether or not, and to what extent, you may need to retrofit your house. I do provide consulting services as a partner in OAK Structural; please email me at onder@boomerese.com to arrange for an on-site consultation.